Redruth to Bere Ferrers

June 2025

The Tamara Way - Part One

Two walking blogs in a row but this one is not as arduous as Tansy's Coast to Coast!

My friend and walking companion, Sheena, and I have been wanting to explore the Tamara Way for months but time, weather, logistical conundrums, excuses meant that it wasn't till early June that we met on a grey morning at Redruth Station armed with enthusiasm and the essential guidebook; we were, after all, going into Devon...

The Tamara Way is an 87 mile walk from Plymouth along the River Tamar and its tributaries to Bude; meaning that you can now circumnavigate Cornwall on foot. We were planning to start at Saltash on what is actually the second leg of the route to Bere Ferrers. The first leg seemed to include a long section along a main road in Devonport so we thought we would forego that part.

The plan which we had sketchily made was to take the train to Saltash, walk over the Tamar Bridge and pick up the trail in Plymouth. However, the guidebook was insistent that we check tide tables as the Lopwell Dam is tidal and impassable for two hours either side of high tide. It dawned on us that if we took that route, we were likely to arrive there at high tide and then would miss the return train from Bere Ferrers to Plymouth. Quick change of plan: keep on train to Plymouth and take branchline to Bere Ferrers and follow the trail - backwards. What could be simpler? Described in the book as a 9.8 mile walk, taking four and a half hours...

The train was seamless and the two carriage branchline train arrived in Plymouth almost at the same time as we did. We travelled back through the city, crossed the River Tavy and soon alighted at the very pretty station of Bere Ferrers.

As well as the very comprehensive book, there are way markers along the route: 'follow the bee' which of course can get a bit obscured in the summer vegetation. And, in the main, they are placed for walkers following the route from Plymouth. Delightful walk through the pretty village with gardens abundant with blooming sweet peas and cottage flowers where ours were still at the peeping through the ground stage. We briefly joined a local dog walker on the path by the river bank and were enchanted by the riverine landscape we were walking through. That is until we could go no further and had to turn back on the first of our detours. It was all so beautiful and new that we weren't concerned. Before long we arrived at Lopwell Dam where the causeway was still passable. It felt slightly vertiginous with the rushing water inches from your feet!

We were following the route around the River Tavy, a tributary of the Tamar which flows from Tavistock and its source on Dartmoor. Wooded, marshy and in the main away from settlements and busy roads, so it is a prized habitat for wildlife; we encountered mallards and chicks, geese and white, white egrets, despite living in mudflats. Revived by eating our sandwiches at Maristow Quay, we set off towards the next settlement of Tamerton Follet with vague notions of tea and cake in our heads. But that was before we got really lost, plunging into marshland with reeds reaching high over our heads 'This can't be right ...'

Retracing our steps we eventually found the path but it was quite a lengthy detour. By the time we reached Tamerton late on a Sunday afternoon, it was clear that there was little chance of even a cuppa.

Undeterred we tramped on as the river widened with views back to Bere Ferrers. We walked under the Tavy railway bridge we had crossed earlier. Then suddenly the river joined the Tamar and the majestic view of the Royal Albert Bridge and the sea beyond. It was exhilarating.

From there began the long climb up to the Bridge. We got lost in a housing estate and had to be directed by several helpful residents. Then we passed multiple MOD sites. Our curiosity was drawn to row of 'fairy' houses on the verge. Just as we approached the mighty structure, it dawned on me that we were going to be walking into Kernow over the Bridge. My excitement was uncontainable! What a joy. All those extra miles were worth it for that experience alone.

We arrived in Saltash exhausted but jubilant and the train arrived within ten minutes. What a fabulous day. We reckon we walked twelve miles and it took us six and half hours but ... who is counting? Our only concern at this point was whether we'd manage to stay awake and not miss our stop at Redruth.

Really looking forward to the next leg but may follow the guidebook direction on that one!